Tuesday, October 27, 2009

It's soooo quiet...

I'm headed off for a long overland tour of Africa tomorrow and will probably not get access to the internet for the next 40 days or so.  So the reason why I'm not posting to the blog is just due to the lack of internet access and not because I'm a leopard snack being dragged up into the trees or suffering from amnesia and hiding in a trash can somewhere.

If I don't resurface after a few days thereafter, call the Mounties (pretty please)!

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Leap of Faith


I wasn’t sure why I decided to do it.  I think sometimes you don’t realize you’re going to do something until you’re there at the precipice and then say to yourself “what the hell, why not”.  Next thing you know, you’re hurtling to the earth at over 100 kilometers per hour with a bungee cord the only thing keeping you alive.

I never thought I’d ever bungee jump, but here I was, on South Africa’s Bloukrans Bridge – the “highest bridge bungee jump” in the world at 216 meters above the earth.  The decision to bungee jump is like a lesser version of Pascal’s Wager.  The probability of the bungee cord ripping apart is low, but if it does, well you’re a splat of blood and bone far down below in the river valley.  So when you weigh the benefits of experiencing five seconds of free fall and the adrenaline rush of surviving the jump against the possibility of dying… well it’s not worth taking the risk of leaping off the ledge.

5… 4… 3… 2… 1… BUNGEE!  Well I did it anyways and it was awesome!  Don’t get me wrong. I was freaked out.  I looked calm and collected on the video, but in my mind I kept reminding myself that the bungee jump system was tried and tested with a 100% success record.  It helps that the crew operating the bungee jump does everything that they can to make jumpers less anxious about the jump – they were joking around with everyone and dancing to blaring hip hop music.  For a second, I just imagined myself at a dance club about to leap off the stage into a sea of friends.

Since this is one of the highest bungee jumps in the world, it was actually like doing multiple bungee jumps because of the ensuing bounces.  I must have recoiled at least five times and at each pull of my legs, I worried that the line would let loose and I’d be Wile E. Coyote (with no Roadrunner in sight).  I suppose that’s what fuels the fire of the adrenaline rush.  From the moment I saw the earth rushing towards me to the few seconds of quiet I had when left dangling on the end of the cord, thoughts of death filled my mind.

Even as one of the crew descended to reposition me into a sitting position to be pulled back up onto the platform, I was worried that something would go wrong and I’d plummet to my death.  The adrenaline continued to boil my blood, as I walked over the bridge of metal webbing (with a clear view of the air beneath me) back to land.  So many things seemed possible of going wrong and it would have sucked if I ended up dying to some random freak accident after surviving the bungee jump.

Would I do it again?  I’m not sure, but after viewing the video of my bungee jump, strangely enough my mind wondered how I could improve my jump.  When I jumped off the ledge, I sort of stepped off the ledge with my feet first instead and didn’t get that perfect arc one would get if I had sailed off into the air in the way that I imagined I might be able to do.  Why, after having risked my life, was I thinking of ways to improve my jump the next time.  Maybe I would do it again.

It’s incredible that your mind can counter thousands of years of evolution and the instinct that one should not be jumping off very high places.  And with some hindsight, I suppose it wasn’t a leap of faith that I took when I jumped off that ledge, but the summation of smaller rational conclusions that I made while headed to the bungee jump.  My decision to quit my job and enjoy life for a little bit was something like that.  You analyze and then analyze again, but feel too paralyzed to choose.  At those times, “what the hell, why not” feels like the right answer.  My adventure isn’t close to ending yet and who knows what will happen when I get back to Hong Kong, but I’m thinking now that maybe some risks are worth it (even when the odds don’t seem to be in your favor).

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

One night in Singapore

Before I started on this big trip around the world, I was spending my days playing World of Warcraft.  For the uninitiated, World of Warcraft ("WoW") is an online game that submerges you into a virtual world of goblins, trolls and dragons.  This game and is played by 11 million people all over this world.

I've been playing this game for about a year now and have met tons of people online.  Playing with these people all the time you wonder who the heck is on the other side of the computer.  I finally had a chance to meet some of the folks I play with often when I arrived in Singapore.  I wasn't sure what to expect, but for some reason I expected these people to look like the characters they played online (short and stocky like a dwarf, tall and wispy like an elf, normal like a human...).

So we organized a small gathering where I met ten of my fellow guild members (or "guildies" - when we play this game, we organize large numbers of players into guilds to go and kill, for example, a big ass dragon).  I wasn't sure if we were to refer to each other with our real names or our online names (we ended up referring to each other by our online names - hahaha!).

It was a random smattering of people from all types of backgrounds.  By profession, there was a moneylender, a taxi driver, a teacher, an accountant, a sales executive, a student amongst others.  We talked about normal things (a couple was getting married, one was complaining about work...), but inevitably conversation reverted back to our common bond - the game.

Funny thing was, of everyone there, I was the only single person there.  Despite most assumptions that online games are only played by the socially inept, acne-ridden geeks, and lonely men and women; of the group I was probably the closest to the stereotype.  It was a hilarious revelation.

It was great meeting some of my guildies in Singapore.  Unfortunately, I was only in town for that single night.  I invited them to visit me in Hong Kong and by then I hope I'm not the "dorkiest" one there.  :)

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Diary of a Wannabe Himalayan Trekker

When I planned the Nepal segment of my trip, I originally wanted to spend three weeks hiking the Annapurna Circuit, a trek requring 17-21 days to circumabulate the Annapurna portion of the Himalayas.  However, those plans had to be adjusted when my friend decided to join me in Nepal.  She only had 8 days, so I had to settle for a less ambitious 5 day trek (the Annapurna Panorama trek) in the lower areas of the mountain range.  I was excited to have a friend join me on my travels but at the same time was a bit disappointed that I wouldn't be able to do the full Annapurna Circuit trek.  However, I would soon realize that my friend saved me from much pain and suffering (not to mention potential failure)!  The Annapurna Circuit is a challenging trek, but still very doable... for fit individuals.

When we started on our Annapurna Panorama trek things seemed easy enough, but by the second day my mind was filled with thoughts of turning back.  This particular trekker was more suited to sitting on a couch watching reruns of Star Trek than climbing mountains.  Unfortunately, in my reality there were no transporters to reassemble my molecules at the top of the mountain; no hyposprays to ease the cigarette induced burn in my lungs; and I was certainly not in a holodeck when both the young and old lept over the hewn stone steps of the trail to pass me.  I wanted my remote control.

I did get pass day 2 of our trek, but I probably wouldn't have made it to day 3 without my friend's encouraging words.  "Come on, Wilson!" she shouted and I managed another step forward.  Off in the distance, I'd hear the words "Oh, it's soooooo beautiful!" and I would be reminded of the reason why I was was in the mountains in the first place.  We eventually finished the trek and had an amazing time - more so because of the company kept.  The conditions may have not be optimal, but the experience was incredible.

Day 1:  Naya Pul to Tikhedhunga (740m ascent)
Naya Pul was the starting point of the Annapurna Panorama trek and a short walk from there led us to a river that guided us through the first few kilometers of the trail.  The sun burned as we climbed at a steady pace up the foothills and through fields that would soon be harvested.  Occasionally, I'd stop to catch my breath and let the breeze cool my skin.  After about six hours we arrived at Tikhedhunga, our first stop, and rested for the night.  The walls separating the rooms from each other were paper thin and we could hear everything being said in the next room.  As I tried to sleep, I heard muffled grunts and words like "that tickles" through the wall.  I wondered what could be going on in the next room.  Then I heard a third voice in the room and I realized that there was a professional masseusse easing our neighbors' aches and pains from a long day of hiking.  I was relieved because I knew the next room's occupants were an older woman and man from England, who happened to be mother and son.

Day 2:  Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani (1540m ascent)
Our guide warned us that this day would be tough as there was a 1000m steep ascent we had to overcome in the morning.  As we climbed, the spans between my short rests shortened from 20 minutes to 10 minutes, then to 5 minutes, then to 3 minutes until I was stopping every other minute to pant for more air.  "One step at a time" I was thinking to myself.  My friend continued to encourage me up the mountain like Rob Schneider might in an Adam Sandler movie.  I continued to plod up the mountain and thought that maybe some hype would help keep me moving.  I pulled out my iPod and through the speaker came out classic 80's tunes from Depeche Mode and the Smiths.  I was filling up with hype and was suddenly inspired to leap up a flight of steps.  And I did!  When I got to the landing before the next switchback, I stopped to look down at the steps I had just conquered.  Fireworks flared in my vision... and I realized I was getting dizzy.  I leaned against the rocks and rested for a bit.  Maybe more chill and less hype; one step at a time.

We eventually made it to our second stop and rested for the night.  My legs were achy and breaky.  We felt deserving of a reward and ordered a slice of apple pie (we could not even believe there was apple pie available!).  We shared our slice with our porter and guide.  It was our porter's first time having apple pie and it was sweet watching him enjoy it.

Day 3:  Ghorepani to Tadapani (550m descent, 740m ascent)
We woke up to cloudy skies and drizzle - conditions which continued for the rest of the day.  We had an option of taking a steep hike up to a viewpoint called Poon Hill to see the sunrise and a vista of the Himalayan peaks - the highlight of the Annapurna Panorama trek.  After the previous day's pain, I decided that I've seen enough sunrises in my lifetime and already saw amazing views of the Himalayas from Tibet, so I was committed to sleeping in.  My friend was planning to make it up the mountain alone, but since the weather was cloudy, no sunrise or vistas could be had this morning anyways.  So we both slept in and I felt better that I didn't have to leave my friend to climb to Poon Hill without me.

So instead of the glory of snow-capped mountains lit by the faint light of the sun, we were given another gift from the gods - Gurung!  Gurung is a Tibetan type of bread made by frying some flour mixed with baking soda, sugar and salt.  We never knew of it's existence until some fellow travelers ordered it for breakfast that morning (I never even saw it in Tibet!).  It was manna from the gods - a giant doughnut without any guilt.  My friend promised to learn how to make the bread and I'm looking forward to having a pile of them when I get back to Hong Kong after my trip is done.

We continued our trek through gorgeous mountain forests until we reached Tadapani.  There the guesthouses were located above a valley beyond which stood a shy Machhapuchre, a peak reaching over 6600m that hid behind clouds our entire time on the trek.

Day 4:  Tadapani to Sayuli Bazar
Our guide promised us that there would not be any more climbing and it would be all downhill from here.  I was relieved that the remainder of the trek would be less strenuous, but it was still difficult to navigate down the steep and narrow steps.  After the previous 3 days I was beginning to feel my age. 

I felt a twinge of sadness knowing that this trek would be over soon, but as we descended from the mountain, I now gazed down on countless terraces filled with rice and millet.  It would be a beautiful climb down.

Day 5:  Sayuli Bazar to Naya Pul
It was a short 2 hour walk back to Naya Pul.  On this fifth day, the rain clouds hovered over our heads as they had for the previous 3 days, but I was glad for shelter from the sun.  As we neared the bottom, the heat and humidity intensified so when the sun did occasionally come out, it felt like hot irons on my back.  During those moments, I brought out my umbrella and covered my head.  My friend laughed at me for taking out my "parasol', but she doesn't understand the risk of skin cancer so I forgave her for her ignorance.  My friend will probably forever taunt me with pictures of me hiding under the shade.  

At Naya Pul, we boarded on our car and left the mountains behind us.

What an amazing trek!  Even though it was not what I originally planned for, the Annapurna Panorama trek was a beautiful hike that pushed me to my physical limits.  If not for my friend joining me in Nepal, I probably would have died on one of the more strenuous treks through the Annapurna range.  Okay, I probably wouldn't have died (I'm not climbing Everest!), but I would have been in pain, lots and lots of pain.  I promised my friend we'd come back and do one of the more challenging treks like the full Annapurna Circuit or the Annapurna Sanctuary trek.  More importantly, we will probably try it together, as I learned that it's more important to be with friends then trying to go it solo.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

More Photos!

I sort of gave up on captioning each photo - it's a lot of work. So you'll just have to enjoy the power of my Canon 5D Mark II without the photographer's commentary (maybe I'll put out a special edition DVD in the future).

2009_09_13 Jiuzhaigou

2009_09_16 Lhasa

2009_09_19 EBC

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Chengdu Photos

Trying to figure out how to link my photos... experiment 1!

2009_09_11 Chengdu

Did you hear the one about...

So two Polish guys hop into a minibus with an Israelite, two couples (a Dane+Chilean and a pair gone Dutch), a Canadian, a big fat Greek and me.   Okay, so this isn’t a joke, but the composition of my Tibetan tour group.

One of the fun things of traveling is meeting random people and hearing their stories.  I only hoped that my life story would be just as interesting as theirs.

The two Polish guys reminded me of Laurel and Hardy – one talked and the other one didn’t – unfortunately they weren’t very funny (Poles have a strange sense of humor), but nice guys nonetheless.  The Israelite is the mother of a famous actress in Israel and could have probably kicked my ass if she wanted – she couldn’t join us further into Tibet because she had high blood pressure and her doctor back home suggested she not try to test the higher altitudes (okay so I might have managed to defend myself in Lhasa).  The Chilean-Dane couple is a species you don’t see very often these days.  The Chilean having gone to university surrounded by guns and violence and the Dane having forgone everything to teach divers the art of escaping hippos from Malawian waters.  The Dutch couple, one freshly graduated from university and the other still in university, has been together for the last five years and surprisingly were chatting with each other non-stop (they did however, pay for their own individual meals).  The Canadian, a man of nature, traveled through the Andes, Kilimanjaro and Antarctica all in the last six months and soon will traverse the Himalayas (he seemed to have shacked up with a hot local girl from every country in South America he was in – I saw pictures!).  And the Greek (we nicknamed her “mama”), well she was a bit of a pain in the ass.  She complained about everything throughout the whole trip and inevitably became the butt of all our jokes (she avoids us now as we bump into each other in Katmandu).

It’s been great hanging out with these people for the last two weeks.  Everyone had different perspectives about the politics and culture of Tibet and everything else.  Even the Canadian got me thinking differently about things.  It’s sad that everyone will be going his or her separate ways in a few days.

Saturday, September 26, 2009

The Sky Was Blue



I remember the first thing I noticed about Tibet was the sky.  The sky was filled with blues and whites so pure, that it reminded me of simpler times occupied with the cutting of construction paper and the pulling of cotton.  There was nothing to mar the clarity of what you witnessed or any polluting influence effecting how you felt.

I’m out of Tibet now and the leaving part seems all too familiar.  It would have been nice to stay in Tibet for a while longer and stare into the sky some more, but there's always an itinerary to follow.

Friday, September 25, 2009

How not to use a thermometer...

I arrived in Nepal a few days ago, crossing the border in Tibet at the Zhangmu-Kodari land crossing.  When you can cross into Nepal though everyone is required to have a quick medical screening for the H1N1 virus at the immigration/visa office.  So after getting my visa, I was ushered into the screening room where a medical professional asked me some basic questions about my health - "Do you have a cough"; "Do you have a fever", etc.  He then passed me a thermometer to take my body temperature.

I girded myself for the idea of putting the thermometer in my mouth, where possibly hundreds of others had previously placed it.  So I took a deep breath and stuck it in my mouth, got the temperature reading and passed it to the guy behind the desk.  He looked at me a little weird and then wrote down my information in his log.

I didn't understand why he was looking at my so weirdly.  When I exited the room, the others that I was traveling with asked me how'd everything go.  I told them I stuck the thermometer in my mouth and exclaimed "yay, no fever!".

Strangely enough, I got the same weird look from my traveling buddies that I got from the medical guy and then they all burst out in laughter.  "Ummm, what's so funny?", I asked and one of them replied, "Don't you know you can take your temperature by putting the thermometer under your armpit!?!?".  I was like what??  You can take take your temperature that way?!

Suddenly the thought of a thousand armpits in my mouth entered my head...  What the hell did I just do!?!  I mean when I put the thermometer in my mouth the first time I figured if everyone else had done the same thing -  I didn't have much of a choice.  But now knowing that no one else probably put the thermometer in their mouths like I did really really disgusted me.  All the while, everyone's laughing at me!  I have to admit it was funny (well my mouth has probably been in even dirtier places).

But it wasn't funny for too long...  hahaha!  One of my fellow travelers bought a bottle of beer and I asked him for a small cup of it.   Probably not enough alcohol content in the beer to kill any germs, but I went ahead and rinsed out my mouth with it anyways.  I felt a little better afterwards - just hope there weren't any babies that were crossing the border that day!

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Can't Upload Photos - Argh!

I'm trying to upload photos, but every attempt has failed!  Might have to wait until I get out of China to post photos.  I have to use proxy servers to post regular blog entries here, so I think the proxy servers are what's stopping the photo uploads from happening.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Huanglong and Jiuzhaigou

I jumped on a local tour from Chengdu to visit Huanglong and Jiuzhaigou – two protected nature reserves in Sichuan province. I spent a day at each spot (enough time to enjoy both places) and then rushed back to Chengdu to get on my flight to Tibet (which is where I am now at the moment).

Huanglong (“Yellow Dragon”) is known for the being largest collection of travertine deposits in the world. These travertine deposits form a network of crystal clear lakes that stretch for about 6 kilometers. Huanglong reminded me of Pamukkale in Turkey, but Huanglong has a much larger collection of lakes. Unfortunately, you can’t play in the water here in China like you could in Turkey. If you ever go, take the cable car up to the top and then walk down to the entrance. It’s a nice 3-hour hike through alpine forests down a well-maintained trail made of wooden planks.

Jiuzhaigou (“Nine Village Valley”) is probably most famous for being the location where one of the memorable fight scenes in the movie “Hero” (remember the fight between Jet Li and Tony Leung over the lake) was shot. When you visit Jiuzhaigou, you realize why Zhang Yimou chose this place – the natural beauty was just breathtaking. Jiuzhaigou is filled with lakes with water so clear that you might have thought the lake was empty if not for all the incredible colors that emerged from them. I took a lot of photographs of the place and still when I look back at them, it doesn’t do much justice to the experience of seeing it with your own eyes. If you get the chance to visit this place, make sure to get in during the early morning hours as the entire area is covered in a mist that makes everything feel magical.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Being the Third Wheel...

As friends get attached, detached or reattached to/from one another (while I stay unattached to anything), I often find myself being the third wheel. In the most awkward of times, I've been caught in the middle of fierce arguments, but most of the time being a third wheel just reminds me of my own "singleness". The contrast of my one to their two usually forces a moment to think about personal things, which usually leave the same set of lingering questions unanswered.

But last Saturday in Chengdu reminded me that sometimes being the third wheel is a gift to be appreciated and enjoyed. It's not something that is directly shared, but there is a sweetness to being witness to the beginning of a romance. And it's better to consider what one might (and could) have instead of mulling over why one doesn't (and may never) have.

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Chengdu Bars

Chengdu's bars suck... well at least the one I went to tonight. Funny coming from a guy who doesn't drink, but there's a lot of annoying things about bars in Chengdu.

a) There's no dance floor - there's no area to dance so you have to just sort of linger and bounce around other people's bar tables and stools.
b) There's no consistent theme to the music - one second there was hip hop, then electronica, then a random korean song about "wanting no one else but you", then some rock music, then some latin music, then a sappy chinese song, then a... well you get the picture.
c) There's no clear view across the room to check out the talent - there were these television screens that dropped over the bar and cut any line of sight to the other side of the room (thus no one could check me out, come over and try to hit on me).

While the bar in general sucked, the company I was with was cool. Elliott has a nice group of friends here in Chengdu who are easy to hang with (and agree that the DJ's need to be hanged).

Friday, September 11, 2009

Second Official Blog Entry

I arrived in Chengdu two days ago on September 9. I didn't immediately realize the importance of the date until I got in front of a television and saw the news reports of couples all over China commemorating their love with the signing of marriage certificates, the gifting of flowers or the closing of "love locks" onto chain enclosures intended to keep people from falling off mountains. I've made a mental note to turn on the television on April 4 to see if there are news reports of estranged lovers sticking needles into voodoo dolls or asking old ladies on the street to curse their former bed-mates.

We were all hanging out when the news of love all over China came spewing out of the television. I was sort of lying down on the couch (I have a bad habit of making myself too comfortable at other people's place of abode), while Elliott was chatting with his co-worker about the new apartment she just moved into and which we were visiting. There were some really tasty mango flavored potato chips on the coffee table and two guys sitting on the other end of the couch playing cards. I was making conversation with the other roommate who told me she was studying English and preparing for her examination which involved knowing terminology like "valence electrons" and "melting point". I still get confused for the Chinese word for "spoon".

Sometime during the the evening, someone suggested we play the Chinese version of "I Never". The game works just like the American drinking game, but instead of drinking for each time you have done something someone else never has, you keep track of them. Once you get caught five times for doing something, someone gets to ask you any question they like. It's so easy to play this game with strangers that you'll probably never see again, but I don't think I could ever play this game with friends.

Hihi!

Okay, so here it is... a blog (ta da!). You guys might be surprised that I decided to do it, since I was complaining about not wanting to feel the pressure of being witty, insightful, meaningful or whatever that comes with the act of writing. But I guess when you can't sleep because you're coughing your lungs out from too much smoking, one might as well do something. So here it goes - I don't promise anything, but I'll try to keep everything grammatically correct.