Diary of a Wannabe Himalayan Trekker

When I planned the Nepal segment of my trip, I originally wanted to spend three weeks hiking the Annapurna Circuit, a trek requring 17-21 days to circumabulate the Annapurna portion of the Himalayas.  However, those plans had to be adjusted when my friend decided to join me in Nepal.  She only had 8 days, so I had to settle for a less ambitious 5 day trek (the Annapurna Panorama trek) in the lower areas of the mountain range.  I was excited to have a friend join me on my travels but at the same time was a bit disappointed that I wouldn't be able to do the full Annapurna Circuit trek.  However, I would soon realize that my friend saved me from much pain and suffering (not to mention potential failure)!  The Annapurna Circuit is a challenging trek, but still very doable... for fit individuals.

When we started on our Annapurna Panorama trek things seemed easy enough, but by the second day my mind was filled with thoughts of turning back.  This particular trekker was more suited to sitting on a couch watching reruns of Star Trek than climbing mountains.  Unfortunately, in my reality there were no transporters to reassemble my molecules at the top of the mountain; no hyposprays to ease the cigarette induced burn in my lungs; and I was certainly not in a holodeck when both the young and old lept over the hewn stone steps of the trail to pass me.  I wanted my remote control.

I did get pass day 2 of our trek, but I probably wouldn't have made it to day 3 without my friend's encouraging words.  "Come on, Wilson!" she shouted and I managed another step forward.  Off in the distance, I'd hear the words "Oh, it's soooooo beautiful!" and I would be reminded of the reason why I was was in the mountains in the first place.  We eventually finished the trek and had an amazing time - more so because of the company kept.  The conditions may have not be optimal, but the experience was incredible.

Day 1:  Naya Pul to Tikhedhunga (740m ascent)
Naya Pul was the starting point of the Annapurna Panorama trek and a short walk from there led us to a river that guided us through the first few kilometers of the trail.  The sun burned as we climbed at a steady pace up the foothills and through fields that would soon be harvested.  Occasionally, I'd stop to catch my breath and let the breeze cool my skin.  After about six hours we arrived at Tikhedhunga, our first stop, and rested for the night.  The walls separating the rooms from each other were paper thin and we could hear everything being said in the next room.  As I tried to sleep, I heard muffled grunts and words like "that tickles" through the wall.  I wondered what could be going on in the next room.  Then I heard a third voice in the room and I realized that there was a professional masseusse easing our neighbors' aches and pains from a long day of hiking.  I was relieved because I knew the next room's occupants were an older woman and man from England, who happened to be mother and son.

Day 2:  Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani (1540m ascent)
Our guide warned us that this day would be tough as there was a 1000m steep ascent we had to overcome in the morning.  As we climbed, the spans between my short rests shortened from 20 minutes to 10 minutes, then to 5 minutes, then to 3 minutes until I was stopping every other minute to pant for more air.  "One step at a time" I was thinking to myself.  My friend continued to encourage me up the mountain like Rob Schneider might in an Adam Sandler movie.  I continued to plod up the mountain and thought that maybe some hype would help keep me moving.  I pulled out my iPod and through the speaker came out classic 80's tunes from Depeche Mode and the Smiths.  I was filling up with hype and was suddenly inspired to leap up a flight of steps.  And I did!  When I got to the landing before the next switchback, I stopped to look down at the steps I had just conquered.  Fireworks flared in my vision... and I realized I was getting dizzy.  I leaned against the rocks and rested for a bit.  Maybe more chill and less hype; one step at a time.

We eventually made it to our second stop and rested for the night.  My legs were achy and breaky.  We felt deserving of a reward and ordered a slice of apple pie (we could not even believe there was apple pie available!).  We shared our slice with our porter and guide.  It was our porter's first time having apple pie and it was sweet watching him enjoy it.

Day 3:  Ghorepani to Tadapani (550m descent, 740m ascent)
We woke up to cloudy skies and drizzle - conditions which continued for the rest of the day.  We had an option of taking a steep hike up to a viewpoint called Poon Hill to see the sunrise and a vista of the Himalayan peaks - the highlight of the Annapurna Panorama trek.  After the previous day's pain, I decided that I've seen enough sunrises in my lifetime and already saw amazing views of the Himalayas from Tibet, so I was committed to sleeping in.  My friend was planning to make it up the mountain alone, but since the weather was cloudy, no sunrise or vistas could be had this morning anyways.  So we both slept in and I felt better that I didn't have to leave my friend to climb to Poon Hill without me.

So instead of the glory of snow-capped mountains lit by the faint light of the sun, we were given another gift from the gods - Gurung!  Gurung is a Tibetan type of bread made by frying some flour mixed with baking soda, sugar and salt.  We never knew of it's existence until some fellow travelers ordered it for breakfast that morning (I never even saw it in Tibet!).  It was manna from the gods - a giant doughnut without any guilt.  My friend promised to learn how to make the bread and I'm looking forward to having a pile of them when I get back to Hong Kong after my trip is done.

We continued our trek through gorgeous mountain forests until we reached Tadapani.  There the guesthouses were located above a valley beyond which stood a shy Machhapuchre, a peak reaching over 6600m that hid behind clouds our entire time on the trek.

Day 4:  Tadapani to Sayuli Bazar
Our guide promised us that there would not be any more climbing and it would be all downhill from here.  I was relieved that the remainder of the trek would be less strenuous, but it was still difficult to navigate down the steep and narrow steps.  After the previous 3 days I was beginning to feel my age. 

I felt a twinge of sadness knowing that this trek would be over soon, but as we descended from the mountain, I now gazed down on countless terraces filled with rice and millet.  It would be a beautiful climb down.

Day 5:  Sayuli Bazar to Naya Pul
It was a short 2 hour walk back to Naya Pul.  On this fifth day, the rain clouds hovered over our heads as they had for the previous 3 days, but I was glad for shelter from the sun.  As we neared the bottom, the heat and humidity intensified so when the sun did occasionally come out, it felt like hot irons on my back.  During those moments, I brought out my umbrella and covered my head.  My friend laughed at me for taking out my "parasol', but she doesn't understand the risk of skin cancer so I forgave her for her ignorance.  My friend will probably forever taunt me with pictures of me hiding under the shade.  

At Naya Pul, we boarded on our car and left the mountains behind us.

What an amazing trek!  Even though it was not what I originally planned for, the Annapurna Panorama trek was a beautiful hike that pushed me to my physical limits.  If not for my friend joining me in Nepal, I probably would have died on one of the more strenuous treks through the Annapurna range.  Okay, I probably wouldn't have died (I'm not climbing Everest!), but I would have been in pain, lots and lots of pain.  I promised my friend we'd come back and do one of the more challenging treks like the full Annapurna Circuit or the Annapurna Sanctuary trek.  More importantly, we will probably try it together, as I learned that it's more important to be with friends then trying to go it solo.